“Șah Hai Mas” – A traditional roma dish, as prepared by bulibașa Bercu

In an atmosphere filled with goodwill and hospitality, in a space that seems to come straight out of old books that deal with social integration the way it should be, under a light that reveals vibrant colors in all their aesthetic forms, we step into a world that many can only dream of. Without prejudices and without secrets, we are invited into the home of the Bulibașa (Roma leader) family, located just a 10-minute walk from Iași. As we pass through the gate, as if in privilege, we are welcomed as if it were a local celebration. Everywhere around us is a kaleidoscope of colors, children laughing heartily, the ladies of the house inviting us to make ourselves comfortable, and, of course, the pillar of the home and community, Bulibașa Bercu.

The conversation begins in the Roma kitchen, where we learn that various sumptuous dishes delight the community, from the traditional “Bândărețul” served at Christmas to “Săviac” (a traditional pie with lots of cheese) and other delectable treats. From smoked meats to “Șah Hai Mas,” Roma gastronomy is simple but incredibly appetizing. “Șah Hai Mas” is a recipe that has been prepared for centuries within the community, and its preparation is as follows:

In a large cauldron, start by sautéing pork ribs (preferably smoked) and fresh pork shoulder. As they begin to heat up and release their most exquisite flavors, add finely chopped onions, then let them simmer covered. Ancuța, the responsible cook and Bulibașa’s eldest daughter, shares the recipe in detail and reveals some of the Roma traditions related to etiquette, society, and cooking.

In the kitchen, which looks more like a castle chamber with gilded arches, paintings representing generations, opulence, and a lot of color, the delightful aroma continues to waft through the air. Over the sautéed meat, add cubed potatoes, diced tomatoes, finely chopped cabbage, and coarse salt. This colorful dish simmers peacefully in the cauldron over low heat. Adjust the flavors with more seasoning and add sour soup (borș) almost towards the end. Finally, when the dish is almost ready, toss in a generous handful of rice and let it simmer.

We all gather at the table, and in Western-style plates, we are served “Șah Hai Mas.” It pairs wonderfully with hot peppers and stories from the community.

We find it hard to leave Bulibașa’s home, and the special connection created between us is worthy of an everlasting friendship. When you crave an authentic flavor, give “Șah Hai Mas” a try!

Ingredients:

– 1.5 kg pork ribs

– 1 kg pork shoulder

– 1 large cabbage

– 500 g rice

– 1 kg tomatoes

– 1.5 kg potatoes

– 1 liter sour soup (borș)

– 200 g tomato paste

– 100 ml oil

– Lovage (a herb)

– Salt/pepper

Preparation:

1. In a large pot, sauté pork ribs and cubed pork shoulder in oil for about 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Add sliced tomatoes over the meat and let them simmer for a short while. Pour in the sour soup, and after it comes to a boil, add finely chopped cabbage that’s cut slightly larger than what would fit through a grater.
3. Season with salt, cover the pot, and let it simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally. When the cabbage is halfway cooked, add the rice to the pot.
4. When the meat is nearly cooked, add the tomato paste dissolved in a little water and, finally, the peeled and quartered potatoes.
5. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Remove from heat and sprinkle with finely chopped lovage.

Enjoy!